Valle del Bravo: A Top Recreation Destination Part 1 of 2
Valle de Bravo resounds with the happy tapping of hammers, the staccato rumble of road drills and is coated in sawdust and the fine grey dust of concrete. The lakeside town in the Estado de Mexico also has some new, young faces in the tourism office, opposite the sixteenth century campanario (bell tower). Armed with detailed state tourism statistics and well versed on policy, they are earnest and anxious to get it right. “Valle,” as it is known for short, is a little less than 50 miles west of Mexico City and 1,800 meters above sea level. It is the top tourist destination, by number of tourists (of all kinds, national and foreign), and the third by number of international visitors (after Teotihuacán and Tepoztlán) in Mexico's wealthiest state. Right now, it is beginning to recognize its untapped tourism potential by luring in more foreign tourists, and broadening its attractions during the week. “Construction is one of the biggest sources of employment at the moment,” said José Francisco Bernal, of Turismo Municipal. Some major events have taken place here recently, such as the international Festival de las Almas (in October and November last year), monarch butterfly watching (soon coming to a close), and there are many more to come, from sports competitions to religious celebrations, including Semana Santa. Although it was founded in 1530, Valle is initially interesting for its “natural,” rather than historical sights. The latter are primarily the St. Francis of Assisi cathedral on the town square and the church of Santa Maria, with a large, crucified black Christ on its altar as well as the Museo Joaquin A. Pagaza, which is gradually coming into its own. Without a doubt, the focal point and first impression as one descends into the valley from the forests, is the 21-square kilometer lake. The first sight is thrilling, a little like the first glimpse of the Pacific on the way to Acapulco. For those whose escape routes from the city usually take them south or east, Valle is a delightful alternative. Once you see it, you understand why some have referred to this area as Mexico's Switzerland, perhaps this isn't accurate, but it does express the contrast with established ideas of Mexican towns, and Valle's European feel. The “lake” responsible for this enchantment is really a human-made dam, built with two further levels as the land drops down steeply into “Tierra Caliente” at the opposite side (towards Michoacán). The Presa Miguel Aleman began construction in 1938, the aim being to create a huge hydroelectric plant, but this is all to be dismantled and sold off. With Mexico's near-apocalyptic water crisis, the “lago” (which sounds more attractive in tourism promotion terms than “presa”) is now crucial as a reservoir for water channeled along the Cutzamala system to the millions of thirsty mouths in the country's capital. In addition to browsing the famous Mercado de Artesanías and craft and textile shops, no visit is complete without a lake tour. Although sailing and windsurfing, kayaking and water-skiing are the most popular watersports, they tend to be costly. An affordable treat (150 pesos, seating 8 people) is hiring a speedboat at Los Pericos, the first of Valle de Bravo's two floating restaurants (tel: 01 - 726/ 262--0558, 262/262--5775). Other inexpensive activities include mountain biking with well-marked trails, running and hiking. Cletas Valle offers a very good rate for bikes and helmets, and sells other biking gadgets. Friendly owner Carlos Mejía speaks a little English and can recommend places to go. He will negotiate a day rate (16 de septiembre #200, tel: 01-726/ 262-0291, and Cel: 01 - 7222/509-188). A nine-peso colectivo (around 20 pesos in a normal taxi) will take you from the center to the Velo de Novia (Bride's Veil) cascade, a pretty waterfall 35 meters high. Another trip for hikers is up to the cross on La Peña. The walk is about one hour each way, or you can get a taxi ride there for no more than 35 pesos, and return on foot to the costero (lakeside). Valle is world famous for parasailing, and international competitions are often held here at this time of year. The sport is so popular that anyone with a flat, large garden is prepared for angelitos (little angels) to appear out of the sky when winds or misjudgment cause them to miss the standard landing spots. Vuelos Panorámicos is approved by tourism authorities for hand gliding and parasailing, with certified instructors. A 30-minute glide down in a tandem with an instructor costs US$130 on weekends and US$100 during the week (minimum age seven). Take a windbreaker, sports shoes and a camera. There are also week-long courses for those planning to stay in town for a while (Plaza Valle, Local 22 and 24, Fray Gregorio J. de La Cuenca. Tel: 01 - 726/ 262--6382, or 726/262--0934). By Barbara Kastelein - reporter for EL UNIVERSAL/The Herald english daily publication Return to top |
