Travel Review: Cuernavaca

Cuernavaca

The "Land of Eternal Spring," as Cuernavaca is popularly referred to, is located a mere hours drive from the bustling metropolis of Mexico City. Although most of us know Cuernavaca as a nearby town where we probably know someone with a nice house and swimming pool, there is more to Cuernavaca than many of us would think.

Cuernavaca has been a retreat for Mexico City denizens ever since colonial, and even pre-hispanic, times. Its climate is certainly very mild and the city well deserves the sobriquet of "Land of Eternal Spring." Although the city continues to grow at a very rapid rate, bringing with it the concomitant headaches of traffic, smog and urban congestion (the population has reached one million), it continues to boast some of the most impressive residential areas in Mexico, being the preferred abode of many a wealthy Mexican and expatriate. 

Although the most impressive parts of the city - mansions with plush lawns and spacious swimming pools and tennis courts overlooking the city on one side and the mountains on the other - lie behind guarded gates, there are certainly other attractions both within the city and without. 

First let's look at what lies within the city. A stroll throughout the central part of town is particularly pleasant, especially around twilight when the youths and families congregate around the small but very cute and cozy Zocalo. One attraction worth seeing is the Palace of Hernan Cortes, who used to spend time outside Mexico City and in Cuernavaca whenever he could. The building hosts an impressive mural by Diego Rivera (from the 1920's) as well as a museum (Cuauhnauhuac Museum) that's certainly worth a visit. Nearby are the Jardin Borda, old colonial residential areas with gardens including a museum and providing an interesting insight into life in Cuernavaca in colonial times. Make sure you also visit the cathedral, on the corners of Morelos and Hidalgo streets.

For families, Cuernavaca offers many public swimming pools as well, and a trip to "La Jungla Magica" (The Magic Jungle) could be worth it if you are interested in swimming with dolphins. Make sure you ask ahead as sometimes the aquariums are in renovation. In the vicinity there is also the "Salto de San Anton" a 36 km. waterfall with a picnic area, pleasant for a relaxing meal (though it can get pretty congested on weekends, especially Sundays. 

The more adventurous and rewarding experience can be found just outside of Cuernavaca, with a mere 45 minute trip taking you to the impressive ruins of Xochicalco, one of the most important ruins in Mexico, and perhaps the single most impressive extant Aztec ruins. This site spreads over 10 square kilometers, with much yet to be excavated. Particularly impressive are the exquisitely preserved bas-reliefs of Quetzalcoatl on the main pyramid, and also one of the best preserved ball courts in Mexico. Just nearby are the natural water springs of Las Estacas where you can swim and relax in the cool, crisp water.

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